As far as Winter comfort food is concerned, I'm in my element. Not for me a scrape of salady bits flown in from Kenya, but honest, cheap, traditional dishes using cheap cuts of meat and cheap winter veg. The thing about tonight's Lancashire Hotpot is that the lamb fat must percolate through to the sliced potatoes and make them at the same time both crisp and sticky. This is essential and non-negotiable. The stew beneath is covered in shimmering golden yellow globules of fat, the meat exactly between chewy and flaky and the plate crying at the end for bread to mop the last of its rich coating. Very simple, truly delicious.